How to create nodes/bone structure like this?

Hello I have recently came across the "Entry Paradise Pavilion" in Germany and was wondering whether someone could point me in good direction on how to model it using grasshopper? I would like to be able to move centerpoints of the nodes as well as their thickness and length.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions

Tags: bone structure, fabric formwork, nodes

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Permalink Reply by Daniel Piker on January 12, 2011 at 2:22pm

The increase in the number of faces comes from the WeaverBird CatmullClark step. You can decrease the level of subdivision, or skip this step altogether if you already have a mesh with enough faces.

Permalink Reply by Wiktor Kidziak on January 12, 2011 at 2:32pm

Ah right, perfect. thank you!!!

(hm there doesn't seem to be reply link under you last post...)

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Permalink Reply by Matt Gaydon on March 24, 2011 at 6:46am

Hi everyone

Has anyone been able to get the Streched Fabic Code to work with either the latest release of Every Thing... Rhino V4 (SR9) or V5 (16th March) GH 8.07 ??

In V5 I get the error noted in this tread when i open the GH file about a Corupt Chunk... and in both rhino v4 and V5 a final relaxed mesh that does not look like the one pictured using the same files. But no idea why.

Thanks

Matt

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Permalink Reply by Matt Gaydon on March 24, 2011 at 7:50am

Ok Fixed the Bug. It seems UTO Latest Mesh Edit Tools has a new vertices output that GH was automatically plugging in instead of A thus giving you a random set of points and not the edge points.

Attachments:

stretchedfabric Fixed.ghx, 174 KB

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Permalink Reply by Sebastian L. on March 24, 2011 at 7:59am

Thank you!!! now it works perfectly!!!

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Permalink Reply by Andrew Haas on November 10, 2011 at 1:03am

Ive been having trouble breaking it into such clean areas. My goal is to flatten and sew together. here is what mine is ending up like:I have attached my files below, thanks!

Attachments:

Stetched Faberic Together.gh, 25 KB
stretchedfabric.3dm, 58 KB

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Permalink Reply by Andrew Haas on November 27, 2011 at 11:02pm

I have figured out a way to cleanly break up the pieces for fabrication. There is a program called Unfold3D Magic used by video game artists that flattens .obj objects for imaging in photoshop to then be applied as materials on the objects. This can easily cut the object and flatten the pieces. I have attached the program below and an image of the results.

The program requires no installation, just open the program directly from the folder and export your Rhino file as .obj.

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Permalink Reply by Andrew Haas on November 28, 2011 at 12:25am

Here is another program to fabricate with a folding paper methodology. http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/

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Permalink Reply by APTX4869 on March 27, 2013 at 1:25pm

Impressive work Andrew!

I am trying to use this program to unfold and I managed to get the pieces like what you showed above. I am wondering how you exported the 2d geometry to CAD software(Rhino/AutoCad) in order to fabricate the pieces? I m having trouble with getting the 2d geometry back to Rhino-it keeps opening as a 3d object.

Thanks in advance.

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Permalink Reply by Ryan Swanson on April 17, 2013 at 8:50pm

So im trying to use the unfold 3d magic software can you please walk me through the steps you went through to flatten your piece. -Thanks

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Permalink Reply by Andrew Haas on December 12, 2011 at 8:37pm

I was able to unfold and sew together the pieces. its streched under a typical IKEA end table. I built a base and a top for it to hide wiring for lights at the base of each foot. The fabric is like a spandex fabric, this was my second attempt. For the first attempt I over estimated the amount the fabric could stretch and shrunk the cut pieces in rhino by 10%, thinking this would give a good tight fit, but it was too small. Even at 100% scale with stretchy fabric the footings had a little trouble reaching their footholds in the base and top. So print the fabric cut outs on a normal printer at 1:1 scale, cut out, place on fabric and cut from the fabric. label each edge and which side faces out because it can get very confusing while sewing. Sew inside out and flip it back the correct way to hide the seams. This used about 1 m2 of fabric. I would suggest finding stretchable thread as well. I used normal thread and in the seams some kinks formed because it wasnt stretching correctly from the limitation of the thread.

I also attempted building the form as a solid as well, through layering. On each layer I placed two holes each piece for dowels to slide in so they would stack correctly on top of each other and for additional support. I then layered plaster on top of the object, sanded and painted ... will add a finished photo soon. the plaster will crack as it drys, but when you sand it the sanded plaster powder fills into the cracks, which you can then take a wet clothe and rub the wet plaster into the cracks, giving a smooth final finish. The final product is 50cm tall, can support a 55x55x1cm piece of glass as the table top, fairly heavy.